Metal Roofing

Tear-Off and Decking

We firmly believe in tearing off all the shingles and underlayment to get down to the deck of your roof. The deck is the base layer underneath the roofing material.

If the previous roof leaked, had rodent damage, or wasn’t correctly installed by the builder, the only way to see and repair structural damage is by exposing it. To cut corners, some roofers lay new roofing over the old — we don’t.

Some metal roofs, especially older ones, were not placed on a solid deck but used purlins. We can reinstall to purlins to save money, but investing in decking is best for stability, walkability, energy efficiency, and sound resistance.

Currently, building code requires 7/16” decking. Older homes sometimes have 3/8” decking. Some municipalities require redecking to bring the structure up to code, but others do not.

Another alternative to removing an old roof is installing a retrofit system. We don’t recommend this over shingle roofs, but we sometimes do it over old metal roofs. Retrofit systems use purlins to create an air pocket between the original and new roof, improving ventilation and insulation.

Underlayment

When installing the underlayment, the contractor must be careful about what fasteners are used. Using the wrong fasteners can cause imprints in the metal from the underside — especially with heavy foot traffic during installation.

The Metal Panels

We generally install 24-gauge metal panels on our roofs. Like with golf, the lower the number, the thicker (and better) the material.

Most contractors today use 24- or 26-gauge panels, but that wasn’t always the case. Many commercial roofs use 22-gauge metals, while inexpensive metal from home improvement stores is usually 29-gauge — extremely flimsy, easy to dent, and prone to wind damage.

Seams

There are different types of seams on standing seam roofs: single lock, double lock, and snap lock.

A double lock means the metal is folded twice at the seams to prevent water intrusion and is highly recommended over a single lock. Seams can be sealed by hand or with a machine. Snap lock panels literally snap into place.

Double lock seams are more watertight but difficult to take apart for repairs later. Snap lock seams are easier to disassemble, but less watertight.

Fasteners and Clips

Contractors generally use 1”–1.5” screws to secure standing seam roofs. These screws are hidden because they’re covered by the next panel — one reason standing seam roofs are low maintenance.

It’s important to know whether fasteners are going into wood or metal — there are two different types. Fasteners must penetrate the roof deck to meet code and perform correctly.

On homes with exposed soffits, some contractors use shorter screws for looks, but this is improper installation. The eave is one of the most vulnerable parts of a roof; if wind can grab the edge, it can rip the entire roof off.

Clips attach panels to the roof and allow the metal to “float” with temperature changes. We use manufacturer-made clips, not homemade ones. Clip spacing is critical — too far apart, and high winds can lift the roof. Unfortunately, poor clip spacing is hidden once the roof is installed, and homeowners may not discover the problem until years later.

Panel Profiles

We roll-form panels on site to custom fit your home. Panels come in different patterns: flat, pencil-rib, and striated.

Flat panels have a sleek, modern look but show imperfections and “oil canning” (ripples or waves). Striated panels help hide these and create a smoother appearance.

If a roof deck is uneven, we can install backer rod between the old deck and new panels to minimize oil canning — it’s an added cost, but very effective.

Headwalls, Sidewalls & Drip Edge

Flashing is installed wherever the roof meets another surface. Proper flashing prevents leaks. We’ve seen jobs with missing flashing or excessive reliance on sealant — both are major red flags.

Drip edge and other flashings are made from the same material as your roof and are bent in our shop, not on-site.

Crickets

Also called saddles, crickets are installed behind chimneys wider than 28” (as required by code). They divert water and debris away to prevent pooling.

Hips and Ridges

These are critical connection points. We install z-closures with tape seals beneath the ridge cap, which is then fastened with rivets or screws. This keeps everything watertight and secure.

Valleys

Valley metal must be wide enough for heavy water flow or debris buildup during storms. We install ice and water shieldbeneath valley metal for added protection.

Pipe Boots

Most Central Texas homes have several plumbing vents that go through the roof. The proper way to seal these is with a neoprene pipe boot like Dektite — not sealant alone, and not lead or aluminum, which can corrode Galvalume.

Sealant-only methods will fail within a few years due to UV exposure. Neoprene boots are flexible, long-lasting, and code-compliant.

Other Penetrations

For other penetrations — like box vents or stove vents — proper installation requires cutting the panel and breaking it to fit the flashing under the upper panel and over the lower one.

This “shingle effect” ensures water runs over the metal, not under it. Penetrations placed in valleys or seams should always be avoided whenever possible.

Ventilation

Every roof should be properly ventilated unless it’s a closed-cell foam system. Metal roofs are reflective and energy efficient, but they still need airflow.

We recommend minimizing the number of penetrations — one power vent is better than a dozen static vents.

Larger vents or skylights should be mounted on a curb for proper flashing and future serviceability.

Limits of Metal

A metal roof is strong — but not indestructible. If hail dents your car, it’ll probably dent your roof too.

The good news: dents are usually cosmetic and don’t affect performance. However, insurance companies often call dented metal “cosmetic damage” and may deny coverage, which can complicate resale if your roof looks beat up.

If hail damage scratches or breaks the coating, though, that’s a functional issue and needs attention before rust sets in.

Metal doesn’t last forever, but it can easily go 50–100 years when installed properly. When oxidation eventually starts, it’s time for a replacement.

Warranties

Most metal manufacturers don’t back their products with long warranties. Back in the 1980s, galvanized products were overpromised as “lifetime,” and the resulting failures put many manufacturers out of business.

That’s why the most important warranty today is your workmanship warranty.

In Central Texas, most contractors offer 3–10 years — but if that company goes out of business, the warranty is gone too. (And statistically, 98% of roofers go out of business within five years.)

Roofer Chicks® has been in business since 2016, and we proudly stand behind our installations with a Lifetime Workmanship Warranty.

Repairability

Standing seam metal roofs are difficult to repair. Because panels overlap, you can’t just replace one — the roof must often be taken apart from the edge to reach it.

That’s why proper installation matters so much from the start. A bad install can’t just be “touched up” later — it usually has to be redone entirely, turning a cheap roof into an expensive problem.

What About Screw-Down Metal Roofs?

We also install screw-down (exposed fastener) metal roofing upon request — typically for:

• Outbuildings
• Barns
• Detached garages
• Historical buildings (where a more traditional look is preferred)

These systems are more budget-friendly but require routine maintenance, as exposed screws can back out over time. For residential homes, we usually recommend standing seam for its cleaner look and longer lifespan.

Final Thoughts

Standing seam metal roofs are one of the most beautiful and durable roofing systems available — when installed correctly. They’re quiet, energy-efficient, and built to last for generations.

At Roofer Chicks®, we believe in doing things right the first time. We follow code, we build to last, and we stand behind our work for life.

If you’re in New Braunfels, the Hill Country, or anywhere in Central Texas, and you’re ready to invest in a standing seam metal roof, we’d love to help.

💪 We stand behind our standing seam.